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Growing Broccoli - From Sowing Broccoli to Harvesting

Broccoli kweken - van broccoli zaaien tot oogsten

Growing broccoli - from sowing broccoli to harvesting

(Full Latin name: Brassica oleracea var. italica)

Broccoli is a nutritious vegetable that can be used in a variety of ways. You can eat it fresh, lightly sauté it, or use it in stir-fries, soups, pasta, or rice dishes. If you follow a few simple broccoli growing tips, growing your own broccoli isn't difficult at all. Read all the tips here, from sowing to harvesting broccoli.

Introduction

Broccoli is a green vegetable that vaguely resembles a miniature tree. It belongs to the plant species Brassica oleracea.

It is closely related to cabbage, Brussels sprouts, kale, and cauliflower—all edible plants that are cruciferous vegetables.

There are three main varieties of broccoli:



Broccoli is packed with vitamins, minerals, fiber, and antioxidants. According to the Dutch food table, the nutritional value of the edible portion per 100 grams of broccoli is: 112 kJ or 27 kcal.

According to this table, the composition of 100 grams of edible portion is as follows:


  • Water 92 g
  • Energy-providing nutrients:
    • protein 3.0 g
    • fat 0.2 g
    • carbohydrates 2 g.
  • Minerals:
    • calcium 38 mg
    • phosphate 69 mg
    • iron 0.6 mg
    • sodium 5 mg
    • potassium 227 mg
  • Vitamins:
    • thiamine (B-1) 0.07 mg
    • riboflavin (B-2) 0.11 mg
    • vitamin B-6 0.17mg
    • vitamin C 47mg

Growing broccoli: general

Broccoli is a vegetable with no fewer than four crops to choose from (early harvest, summer harvest, autumn harvest, and winter harvest). Depending on when you want to harvest, you decide when to start the cultivation. As a rule of thumb, broccoli seeds germinate within 4 to 7 days at ambient temperatures between 7 and 29°C.


  • Early cultivation: Sow under glass February-mid March; plant outdoors end March-April; harvest in June
  • Summer cultivation: Sow outdoors in late March-May; plant outdoors in May-June; harvest July-August
  • Autumn cultivation: Sow outdoors June-early July; plant outdoors July-August; harvest September-October
  • Winter cultivation of sprouting broccoli: Sow outdoors mid-May to mid-July; plant outdoors July-September; harvest: March-April

When sowing indoors, ensure sufficient light to prevent your seedlings from stretching. If long stems do develop, transplant the seedlings deeper (up to the first leaves) and then give them more light. Wait to transplant spring seedlings into the garden until the weather is frost-free. Harden off the young plants by gradually exposing them to direct sunlight and wind.

Plant the seedlings 35 cm apart in the row and 60 cm between rows. More space between the plants will result in larger heads in the center. Broccoli thrives in full sun. Choose a garden location with at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily.

What does broccoli look like?

The edible part of the broccoli plant is the unopened flower. Ideally, the central head should be harvested when it is fully developed, but before the individual flower buds open into small, yellow flowers.

Signs that broccoli is ready to harvest include a dense head of 10 to 18 cm (4 to 7 inches) with large, dense flower heads. When the flower heads begin to open, harvest immediately. Once the plant has bolted (bloomed), it's too late to pick. To harvest, remove the central flower head with a sharp knife. If you leave the broccoli plant in the ground, side shoots (flower heads) may develop. Although they are smaller than the central flower head, this allows for a longer harvest period and therefore a larger yield.

To maintain the quality of freshly picked broccoli heads, it's advisable to harvest them in the morning and refrigerate them as soon as possible. Unwashed broccoli heads can be stored in the refrigerator for 3 to 5 days. Blanched broccoli freezes well and retains its quality for up to 12 months.

Getting started with growing your own broccoli, from seed to seedling

Broccoli seedlings

Cultivation starts from tiny seeds. How can they grow so enormously large and strong? That's the magic of gardening, isn't it? No broccoli tastes as good as broccoli grown from seed in your own garden.


To start seedlings indoors, you'll need a seed tray , seed and cutting soil , and a grow light or propagator with grow lights (or a reliably sunny windowsill).

Step-by-step plan for sowing broccoli indoors:


  • Fill your tray with seed-starting soil, sow two seeds 0.5 to 0.5 centimeters deep in each hole, and cover lightly. Place your tray on a stand if you're not using a propagator.
  • Moisten them with a plant sprayer and keep them moist until they germinate, which should happen within 5-10 days (at a temperature of about 15°C).
  • Once they've germinated, place the seeds on a sunny windowsill or under your grow light for at least 8-10 hours per day, or simply leave them in the propagator. From now on, continue watering them in the base or propagator. You want to keep one strong, healthy seedling per pot. When the seedling(s) are about 3 centimeters tall, choose the strongest and healthiest seedling. Carefully cut away any other seedlings as close to the ground as possible with scissors.

First come the cotyledons, then the first pair of true leaves, when you see the second pair of true leaves you can go to the next step.

Transplanting seedlings


Second pair of true leaves visible

Transplant your seedlings into p7 pots and let them grow for about 4 weeks until they are ready to be planted out.

Step-by-step plan for weaning:


  • Prick out your seedlings in P7 pots, planting them within 2 cm of the top edge with a mix of 2/3 vegetable garden potting soil and 1/3 perlite granules. Press the soil firmly with the bottom of another pot to remove air bubbles, but don't press too hard.
  • Using your fingers (I use my ring and middle fingers), make a hole in the soil slightly smaller than the root ball in your seed tray. When pressing down, fill the hole completely.
  • With hard trays, you can push the root balls out with your finger; with soft trays, you can remove them with a spoon. The more well-rooted the root ball, the easier this will be.
  • Place the root ball in the hole in the soil you made and press it down firmly.
  • Fill your pot further with potting soil up to just below the cotyledons, but keep the soil at least 0.5 to 1 cm below the top edge.
  • Place a planting label in your pot so you know what you've sown. Write on it with a sun-resistant permanent marker.
  • Now place your pots in a Danish tray, filling them with 1 to 2 cm of water, depending on the moisture content of your potting soil. Your plants will now have nutrients for four weeks. Continue watering the Danish tray so the roots can drink from the bottom. Weigh each pot individually in your hand to determine if your plants are thirsty. Plants on the outside (more direct sunlight and warmth) of your Danish tray may need more water than those on the inside.


Planting out young plants: what should you consider?

Prevent sunburn, harden off your plants

If you've started your seeds indoors, it's best to let the seedlings harden off first. Place them outside in a sheltered spot, out of direct sunlight, for half an hour. The next day, increase the time by an hour. After a few days, your plants will have adjusted to their new environment and you can plant them out with confidence.

If you choose to grow broccoli from seedlings, your cultivation starts here.

Location in your vegetable garden

crop rotation

Avoid planting in areas where cabbage family crops have been grown in the past four years. For cabbages, the general recommendation is to grow them in the same spot only once every four years. If you have fertile and calcareous soil, you can also grow them once every three years, or perhaps even once every two years. It's best to lime your cabbage bed with seaweed lime; 100 grams per m² works well.

Companion planting

Plant broccoli plants alongside French beans, beets, carrots, celery, Swiss chard, cucumbers, lettuce, and peas. Strong-smelling herbs like dill, sage, rosemary, basil, mint, garlic, and thyme also make good companions for broccoli. The strong aroma of these herbs helps repel pests that can attack broccoli.

Soil preparation for growing broccoli

The soil should be loose and well-draining. Loosen the soil thoroughly with a spading fork or a hoe. Watch the video above for all the information on preparing the soil for your vegetable garden.

Broccoli plants are quite greedy. They crave plenty of nutrients, water, and sun. Provide organic, rich soil and fertilize your young plants to maintain consistent growth. Use a balanced fertilizer, as too much nitrogen promotes excessive leaf growth. Since broccoli is a type of cabbage, we naturally aim for lots of fruit, not lots of leaves. I mainly use universal fertilizer granules when transplanting. If necessary, you can add some comfrey manure. Plant the young plants, which are now 4 to 6 weeks old (and have 4 or 5 leaves), outdoors, 35 centimeters apart, in holes twice the depth of the planting pot. Leave 60 cm between rows. Choose a location that receives about 8 hours of sunlight per day.

Step-by-step plan for planting out

  • Using a shovel or a rake, dig a hole twice the size of your planter, both deep and wide. Collect the soil in a bucket, as we'll be mixing it with goodies for your plant.
  • If you have well-rotted compost available, you can also add compost to the dug-out soil.
  • Make sure each plant gets 1 teaspoon of magnesium sulfate and two handfuls (approximately 50-60 grams) of universal organic fertilizer pellets . In poor soil, you can also add two handfuls of lava meal (additional minerals) and two handfuls of bentonite (water-retaining).
  • First, apply a layer of improved soil from your bucket until the root ball in your pot reaches the desired depth.
  • Remove the root ball from the pot, loosen the roots a bit, and place your plant on the improved soil in your planting hole. Fill the sides well with the improved soil and press firmly.
  • Create a small ditch around your plant that you can easily water later, or above which you can place a drip irrigation system .
  • Finally, place a large planting board next to what you have planted, a small planting board often gets overgrown

Product in the spotlight

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Watering

Water regularly, as broccoli grows best in moist, but not soggy, soil. Mulch to suppress weeds and maintain soil moisture.

Fertilize

About three weeks after planting, it's best to add some fertilizer. Your plants will now have developed beautiful leaves and the first cabbages are starting to form. If you now sprinkle potassium (also called potash) around your plants and water them well, you can expect a harvest of approximately 50% larger cabbages. Apply 60 grams of vinasse potash around the plant and water thoroughly.

5 tips for harvesting at the right time

broccoli ready to harvest

Harvesting your broccoli is one of the most rewarding moments in the vegetable garden. If you've managed to get your broccoli through the warm weather and prevented it from bolting, you'll now have a number of well-formed heads in sight.

There are 4 signs that your broccoli is ready to be harvested.

Tip 1: Head

The first sign of when broccoli is ready to be harvested is the most obvious: you should have the first head. The head should be firm and compact.

Tip 2: Size of the head

The broccoli head is usually 10 to 18 cm wide when it's time to harvest , but don't rely solely on size. Size is an indicator, but consider other signs as well.

Tip 3: Size of the flower buds

The size of the flower buds is the most reliable indicator. When the florets on the outside of the head grow as large as the head of a matchstick, you can start harvesting broccoli from that plant. The broccoli in the photo above needs to be harvested urgently; the flower buds in the center of the head are actually already a bit too large, a sign that the broccoli is about to start sprouting.

Tip 4: Color

The color of your broccoli florets should be deep green. If you see even a hint of yellow, harvest immediately. This is a sign that the florets are starting to flower or bolt. Harvest your broccoli immediately when this happens.

Tip 5: Harvesting side shoots

broccoli flower buds

After you've harvested the main broccoli , there's another pleasant surprise. You can now continue harvesting the broccoli side shoots. These will grow as small flower heads on the side of the main broccoli . The size of the florets will tell you when these side shoots are ready to harvest. Simply cut them off when they're done.

Potential party poopers

The cabbage fly, the cabbage white butterfly and its caterpillars

Cabbages have some natural enemies in the form of pests. The cabbage white butterfly and the cabbage root fly, for example, can lay their eggs at the base of your plants, a clever move because when they hatch into larvae, they immediately have food. You can recognize these pests by the small holes between the veins on the leaves. When you see the white butterfly fluttering around your broccoli plants, you know you'll soon have problems with its offspring. For this reason, it's best to apply an insect screen to your crops as a preventative measure. For the cabbage root fly and the cabbage white butterfly, you can use Duranet Insect Screen 0.97mm x 1.54mm, 90g/m² – 3 meters wide . It's a professional-quality net. I use old electrical conduits for support, which I use to create arcs to stretch the screen over. Make sure there's no contact between the screen and your plants, as the cabbage white butterfly sometimes lays its eggs on top of the screen where it comes into contact with your cabbage leaves.

Aphids

Curling leaves can indicate that small insects, aphids, are sucking sap from the plant. Read this article to learn all about controlling aphids on your vegetable garden plants.

Flea beetles

Flea beetles are small, shiny-coated beetles with large hind legs, allowing them to jump like fleas when threatened. They nibble small holes in the leaves of your broccoli plants. This isn't a problem in itself, as your plant will surely survive with a few holes. The real danger is that flea beetles can spread bacterial diseases (such as powdery mildew) from plant to plant. Therefore, it's important to consider them an insect pest.

Clubroot - game over


Clubroot is a fungus that quickly causes your broccoli plant to wilt and eventually die. The entire plant, including all roots and tendrils, should be carefully dug up and removed. If the roots are gnarled and deformed (and you can almost see tiny tubers), then clubroot is the problem. Remove the plants quickly to prevent the fungus from lingering in the soil. Do not compost the plants; dispose of them in the trash.

Video growing cabbage

In the video below you can see how Tom grows cabbage in his vegetable garden.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tAG9tTwUKYk

Finally

If you find the information from Moestuinweetjes valuable, then consider us and order your vegetable garden supplies in

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