Planting shallots: how to grow strong, aromatic shallots in your vegetable garden

Planting shallots is one of those classic vegetable garden crops that seems to go almost by itself. No finicky seeds, no soil blocks or seedling trays, just a shallot set in the ground and nature does the rest. Yet, behind that simplicity lies a particularly rewarding cultivation process: during the growing season, shallots develop from a single set into multiple new bulbs. From one single shallot set, several new bulbs emerge that grow in clusters, each with that characteristic soft, aromatic flavor for which shallots are so popular. Like garlic, shallots consist of clusters of cloves that grow together on the plant.

Growing shallots yourself not only gives you a better yield than purchased shallots from the store, but it also lets you play with timing, soil, and storage techniques. Shallots love peace, sun, and well-prepared soil. They ask for little, but reward you with a harvest that lasts for months. The size of the harvested shallots can vary per variety and growing conditions, which influences the final yield. In this cultivation guide, we therefore deliberately focus on planting and setting, not on sowing, and we give you clear guidance without making it unnecessarily complicated.

When planting, it is important to place the shallots in the ground with the flat side down, so that the tip just sticks out above the ground. This promotes good growth and a healthy harvest. After winter, you can also transplant shallots to their permanent spot, depending on the variety and cultivation method.

Sometimes people ask how many shallots they need to plant for their family. I have kept track of many crops in recent years, and in this article, I provide the number of plants per crop I plant, sow, or set for my family: How many to sow and plant for my family?

In my early vegetable gardening years, I followed the cultivation of my onions and shallots for a full year. Consider using a raised garden bed in wet soil to avoid "wet feet" and to optimize growth. Hopefully, you can extract some extra tips from this:

Shallot sets are, by the way, a good alternative or a nice addition to shallots in the vegetable garden.

Planting shallots in pots is perfectly possible and especially interesting if you have little space or if your soil is difficult to work with. Because shallots have a relatively shallow root system, you do not need to use extremely deep pots, but space and drainage are crucial.

Preferably choose a pot or container at least 20–25 cm deep and 25–30 cm in diameter per shallot set. In larger containers, you can combine multiple shallots, as long as you maintain about 15 cm of distance between the sets. Always ensure ample drainage holes: standing water is fatal for shallots.

Use an airy, well-draining potting soil, possibly mixed with some ripe compost. Plant the shallot set so that the tip sticks out just above or level with the soil surface. This prevents rot and stimulates a smooth start. Place the pot in a sunny, sheltered spot, as shallots love warmth but do not like wet feet.

Water moderately but regularly. Let the potting soil dry out slightly between waterings. As soon as the foliage begins to die back, reduce watering so the shallots can ripen properly.

Shallots are almost always planted using shallot sets. These sets already contain all the energy needed to form several new bulbs. The right planting time is more important than speed: planting too early in cold, wet soil slows down the start, while planting a little later often leads to a smoother take. Plant the shallot with the tip just above the surface.

Shallots can also be grown from seeds, but this is less common than using shallot sets.

As the quick start info above already reveals, March is the planting month for shallots.

There are also winter shallots, such as the 'Griselle' variety, but I don't have good experiences with those. Perhaps the winter is too cold for shallots, or I’m just not attentive enough in the vegetable garden during that period, that's also possible :)

Shallots do not like wet, heavy soil. Loose, well-draining soil is crucial to prevent rot and to form nice, uniform bulbs. Shallots dislike having "wet feet"; therefore, it is important to loosen the soil well. Loose soil ensures that excess water can drain away quickly, reducing the chance of wet feet and rotting. Especially clay soil must be thoroughly worked first. Compost is welcome, but there is no need to overdo it. Fresh manure or heavily fertilized soil often leads to lots of foliage and less well-formed shallots.

You can apply fresh manure to your soil in the autumn prior to your growing year. In winter, the manure leaches out and soil life processes the organic material into readily available food for your shallots. This applies to most crops.

If you want to further improve the soil structure, work with a soil conditioner. In this article on soil preparation, I explain all the details: Soil preparation and basic fertilization in your vegetable garden.

My 2 favorite soil conditioners are manure compost and lava grit.

Shallots grow best in a spot in full sun. A sunny location ensures not only better growth but also a more intense flavor. Shallots grow above ground in clusters and need enough space to spread out. Depending on the variety, the bulbs can be round or elongated in shape. Planting too densely results in smaller bulbs.

Shallots are surprisingly drought-tolerant. Regular but moderate watering is sufficient. Especially in wet springs, it is important not to over-water. During the final growth phase, drier soil helps the bulbs harden off properly.

My combination of mulch and drip irrigation hoses has proven to be a winner over the years. Mulch ensures a rich soil life that keeps the soil well-draining. On the other hand, mulch also ensures that the moisture present in my soil does not evaporate. This means I only have to let my drip hoses drip for fifteen minutes every few days. Do you have no experience with mulch or an irrigation system? I’m happy to share my experience in the following two blog posts:

• Mulching in the vegetable garden
• Installing an irrigation system for the vegetable garden in 4 steps.

Shallots are not greedy feeders. Well-prepared soil with some compost is usually sufficient for the entire season. Additional fertilization is rarely needed and can even be detrimental to storage quality.

An exception to this is potassium. If your shallots are starting to thicken, you can add an organic potassium fertilizer. I simply sprinkle the potash at the base of the plants. I treat about 5 plants with a handful. I use this fertilizer:

Shallots fit easily into many vegetable garden combinations and are even useful neighbors for some crops. Through their scent, they help keep some pests at bay, which makes them particularly valuable in mixed beds.

✅ Good neighbors

Shallots grow well next to:

• Carrot – classic combination, helps confuse pests

• Beet and chard

• Lettuce and other leafy greens

• Strawberry

• Fruit trees (in the tree rings)

• Nightshades such as tomato, bell pepper, hot pepper, and eggplant

• Cabbages

These combinations utilize space efficiently and ensure a calm, balanced growing bed.

❌ Bad neighbors

Avoid combining shallots with:

• Beans

• Peas

• Parsley

These crops inhibit each other's growth or share unfavorable soil interactions, which can lead to weaker plants and lower yields.

I'm happy to give you two more interesting links:

• Companion planting in the vegetable garden - 12 immediately applicable benefits
• Crop rotation in the vegetable garden

Shallots (botanical: Allium ascalonicum) belong to the Allium family, just like onions, garlic, and leeks. Shallots are generally robust, but like other alliums, they can be susceptible to a number of typical pests and problems. Early recognition and prevention make the difference here.

Ensure the strip where you are going to plant is free of grass and stubborn weeds. This can be done by manual weeding, but also by covering the soil for a year with, for example, agricultural plastic or cardboard. After a season, the soil is clean and airy, and you will have far fewer issues with competing roots.

The greatest threat to shallots is the onion fly. The larvae eat tunnels into the bulbs, causing plants to wilt and rot. Affected shallots grow poorly or die completely.

Prevention is crucial here:

• Do not plant shallots in the same spot every year (crop rotation).

• Use fine-mesh insect netting from the moment of planting.

• Avoid damaging the bulbs when planting.

In this blog, you can read how to use insect netting to eliminate the onion fly: Using insect netting for ecological crop protection in your vegetable garden

In wet or poorly draining soil, shallots can suffer from fungal rot. This is often only noticed at harvest: soft, brown, or moldy bulbs.

How to reduce the risk:

• Ensure airy, well-draining soil.

• Do not plant too deeply and avoid heavy clay soil without improvement.

• Do not overwater, especially in the second half of the growing season.

Slugs rarely pose a major problem for shallots, but young shoots can sometimes be eaten, especially in wet springs.

Read all our tips here if you have a lot of trouble with slugs: Combating slugs - 4 crucial tips so you can eat your own vegetables

Yellowed foliage, weak growth, or deformed bulbs are usually not a disease, but the result of:

• Soil that is too wet

• Too much nitrogen

• Planting too densely

For shallots, calm, space, and air are more important than extra intervention.

You can harvest shallots young for fresh use, but for storage, let them ripen fully. Once the foliage yellows and falls over, it is time to harvest, usually in summer or early autumn. After drying, shallots store excellently for a long time, provided they are kept cool, dry, and dark. With proper storage, you can use shallots year-round.

Do not store shallots in the refrigerator, as they can become soft and mold more quickly. Instead, use a basket or net with good ventilation in a cool, dry, and airy place to prevent mold and rot.

Shallots are more subtle than onions and are perfect for sauces, vinaigrettes, and refined dishes. They can be prepared in various ways: frying, boiling, braising, stewing, and even used raw in salads or as a garnish. Raw, they are mild and aromatic; when fried or stewed, they become sweeter and gain a deeper flavor. Compared to red onions, yellow onions, and regular onions, shallots have a milder and more refined taste. While yellow and white onions are often sharper and red onions are somewhat milder, shallots are used in many recipes alongside garlic and herbs to add extra flavor to dishes, such as in a Mediterranean herb mix for a stew.

When preparing shallots, it is important to remove the skin first and then cut them into rings or chop them finely. Note: cutting them can cause tears in your eyes and cheeks (it makes you cry), although shallots contain fewer sulfur compounds than regular onions. Make sure not to fry or boil shallots for too long or at too high a temperature, as this can make them taste bitter.

Like potatoes, shallots propagate from bulbs or tubers and grow in clusters underground. Shallots are versatile and are used in countless dishes and recipes; consider, for example, a stew with shallot, garlic, and fresh herbs. A good shallot harvest is one you will enjoy in the kitchen for months.

Shallots don't require a spectacle, haste, or any tricks. They grow at their own pace and show you that vegetable gardening is sometimes mostly about letting go. With a little attention and good soil, you give yourself a harvest that is worth its weight in gold, both practically and culinarily.